The resort in Cherating was wonderfully peaceful - a massive place with very few people in it and an unspoiled beach. There was a Halliburton group in, and a couple of oil rig divers propping up the bar while downing a bottle of the whisky they're not allowed on the rig, a few Chinese families but that was it. It took me a while to convince myself to get back on the bike this morning.
...and then back home. My last day of riding was down the east coast of Johor, a province with a remarkable history of disembowelled wives and sultans murdered in revenge. The road was clearly designed by a drunkard, as it seems completely incapable of going in a straight line. Twists, bends, dips, hills, and just when you think you have a straight bit there's potholes to keep you surprised. Parts run alongside the beach...
...while other wind through plantations...
...then over estuaries dotted with fishing boats...
...and everywhere there are dirt trails leading up into the jungle.
I have to find someone who wants to come explore these with me.
As I ride through Johor Bahru (the Malay town just over the causeway from Singapore) I see some police bikers on large Hondas, and it suddenly strikes me how long it has been since I saw 'real' bikes on the road as opposed to the ubiquitous 150cc scooters. I saw quite a few on the first couple of days on the Highway up to and around KL, and one more just after I crossed the border into Thailand (Harley Electraglide, with Thai plates but ridden by a Farang), but that's it. Since KL that's about 3000km with only one other motorbike.
Finally home to Singapore, through the customs post with helpful and efficient customs officers who zip through the paperwork so they can ask me about the trip, and straight into a welcoming rainstorm. I don't mind, it's warm and refreshing and everything electronic is in the waterproof panniers, and besides, it's over in 5 minutes, I'm dry in another 5 and home 5 minutes after that. The girls have made me steak and put some bread in the oven, the beer is in the fridge and everything's right in the world.
Things I've learned:
1) Check which way the wind's blowing before you stop to wait out a thunderstorm
2) The only road law that's observed in Malaysia is F=MA. A bike has A but not M.
3) 3,500km on a KTM is going to hurt your bum.
4) I always knew Singapore had achieved a lot, but compared to its neighbours it's truly astounding.
Hope you enjoyed the trip with me.
Cheers
Geoff
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